BLACK SAINTS CHAOS MARINE Illustration

I’m not typically a fan of chaos illustration, but it does lend itself to some corrosive color fun.

 Approx. Sketch Time: Pulse (Kristen Bell, Ian Somerhalder,)

Chaplain Gault

 Approx. Sketch Time: I Now Pronounce You Chuck and Larry ( Adam Sandler, Kevin James, Jessica Biel)

Strip #1

See more ‘Bad (Gene) Seeds’ strips here, or use the Other Bits link to the right.

Underground Bunker Hatch w/ weapon mount

If you have a baby, then you can make a concrete reinforced bunker hatch with bolter emplacement.  Follow the logic.

If you have the baby it also comes with a filthy bottom. To take care of the bottom you would purchase something to clean it with. This almost always includes Wet Ones Moist Wipes, or a similar product with an equally moist name. These products come with lids. These lids are actually reinforced bunker hatch molds. No, really. That’s what they were originally designed for.

Just remove the lid from the container and let the moist wipes inside dry out. That second part is optional. Mix up a small batch of hydrocal and poor it in. Let dry.

 

Pop that baby out in an hour or so. Feel free to get tough with it as cracks and chips are desired to give it a busted-up concrete look. You may want to chip and drill a little here and there for bolter hits. Hydrocal is extreemly easy to work with and small divots with a drill really go a long way in adding character. Paint ‘er up with the exterior portion as a ‘poured cement’ surface and the interior as a ‘metal core.’

 

The easiest solution for a turreted weapon is to use the hatch and accompanying double bolter bits from a Predator tank kit. It may be more fun to mod your own though. A plain, closed metal hatch leading into the underground bunker would look good as well. Whatever the case, you now have a Space marine-sized, Hardened Hatch that can be placed anywhere on your terrain for instant access to that ‘underground bunker.’

 

For those of you who just hose your kid off and let them air dry, I cannot help you.

 Play Ideas
Here are a few ideas for integrating the Bunker Hatch.

1. Each Hatch is a control point. The squad in uncontested control of the Hatch by the game’s end will earn the Victory points for it.
2. A squad in uncontested control of the Hatch can use the mounted weapon in lieu of one unit’s personal weapon.
3. A squad can enter a Hatch and travel to any other Hatch on the play field. Work out the travel times and entry time hits however you want.
4. A squad inside a Hatch can “infiltrate” next turn?

I don’t know. You guys come up with some stuff now.

CODEX: Sons of the Dreadnaught

 

 

I thought it might be interesting to release a few illustrations I did up for my brother’s Space marines Chapter,  The Sons of the Dreadnaught. Enjoy.

 
(click a thumbnail)

 Total sketch Time: The Office: Seasons One and Two ( Am. ver. – Steve Carell, Rainn Wilson, John Krasinski, Jenna Fischer)

 

 

 

 

From A to Tzeentch (final layer)

 

The ‘final layer’ is a catch-all highlight layer that includes any last details and highlights to finish off the fig. In this case:

1. Additional highlights.
2. A brown wash on the shining gold to give it an oxidized look.
3. Gold tattooing on the left hand.
4. The addition of a detailed banner hanging from the spear shaft.
5. Details on the impaled space marine (blood drips, a necklace, some script, Ultramarine chapter markings, etc.)

 This is when the tertiary details that make a great paint job go in. With its additional appendage mods, imposing spear, impaled marine and paint job…this fig should look decent on a game table. When I complete a sculpted base, I will post a shot of the final fig in the ‘painted minis’ section.

 

From A to Tzeentch (highlight layers)

 

Layers added to the model at this point are highlight layers. There’s no limit to how many highlight layers can be added, though at some point it will get redundant. Generally speaking, adding more highlights increases the detail and overall appearance of the fig. Since highlights are lighter than all preceding layers, the fig’s overall brightness will increase with each highlight layer as well. I’ve decided to rein it in quite a bit. I’ll give the model two layers of highlights before adding a final pass.

For highlight layer one and two the red hide will begin taking on a brighter red cast with fiery orange blended highlights while the black portions are highlighted with a mixture of the base color and goblin green (two shade levels.)

Highlights are applied to the peak areas of the model’s surface, leaving the base color in and around the slopes of the cavities. This visually increases the depth of the actual geometry, pulling out every bit of detail possible. I apply the non-silver metallic paints at this point.

 

From A to Tzeentch (wash layer)

 

To wash or not to wash. Putting a wash on your model will appear to raise detail areas by darkening deep contours. Depending on how clean the application is, it can also present a ‘dirtier’ feel to the paint job. This is particulary useful on metallic areas where the desired effect is a corroded, warn look, or skins/hides that are not “clean.” I’ve applied a brown wash to some surfaces.

 

From A to Tzeentch (basecoat layer)

 

Layer one color (basecoat) consists of darker shades of the color you eventually want the model to have. From this point on, the model will get lighter and lighter as highlights are added. The overall brightness level will change with each layer.

 

I plan to paint the armor trim with a corroded metallic gold color. I prefer not to use non-silver metallics for basecoat because its reflective properties just make it more difficult for me to see the model’s terrain. I’ve spotted those areas with a non-metallic yellow. You can see where I experimented a little with a base metallic on his left foot.

If you haven’t already, this is the point where you want to determine the standard to which you’re going to paint the model. If this layer is not as clean as possible, you will be fighting each step as you clean it up. This is not conducive to a golden demon/dragon standard model. If a ‘good’ standard is all you’re shooting for, then you have more freedom.

I want the model to look good, but I’m not going to push it too much.

 

From A to Tzeentch (prime layer)

A critical stage in painting almost any surface is the application of a prime or base coat. Priming ensures better adhesion of the paint to the surface, increases paint durability, and provides additional protection for the material being painted. In the case of a non-porous surface like plastics, you may notice that brush paint will not bond well due to oils from the mold release agent or from handling. The primer coat takes care of this and provides an even base coat of color to start building your color layers on. See my post on primers for more info on brands if you want, but it’s not rokkit’ science. 

In the case of my Daemon Prince, I’ve opted for a white base coat as I often do. I know that I will be using some darker paint colors, but it’s a LOT easier to move from light to dark. Once you prime your model, take some shots and enjoy it, because this may be the last time it looks this good.